Episode 1:
cows on the run
May 10, 2001
Geia sas! Greetings from Santorini, Greece! We are relaxing and enjoying having nothing to do except sleep, walk around in the sunshine searching for food, and practice our Greek watching English movies with Greek subtitles at 4 am...oh yeah, and all the time with each other isn't too bad, neither :)
After 2 days of non-stop travel (Vancouver - London - Athens - Santorini) excepting a nap in Hyde Park, London, our systems are completely whacked. We sleep six hours a night, wake up with the sun, eat and wander until mid afternoon, and then sleep until sundown. Life is good.
We hope everyone is well, and that there are no strong Mediterranean winds sweeping grit into your eyes and teeth and dust into your hair. These winds caused quite a stormy ride on the ferry in, but subsided after a few days.
Despite common belief, even propagated by a Greek-Canadian restaurant owner, the Greeks are very friendly and, at least in Santorini, speak English fluently. We are enjoying exploring the island of Santorini (bus and motorscooter--weee!)-- it was a volcano that exploded, so the geography is dramatic and beautiful.
The Greek salad, strangely enough, is fantastic, along with the gyros (similar to shwarma but with less garlic). We found suspicious looking hair in our lamb souvlaki (sheep? human?) and have since abandoned the expensive meal. Prices are comparable to Canada. We hope the less touristy islands will prove cheaper.
We will probably stay in Santorini until May 11, after which we will journey to Naxos, which is to the north and has great hiking (so we hear). Our plans after that included the isle of Patmos (where St. John wrote the book of Revelations) and the island of Samos, which is very close to Turkey. However, ferries run only weekly and bi-weekly from Naxos to Samos and Patmos respectively, so we may tweak our plans by returning to Athens to begin our exploration of the Balkans and some northern islands.
Take care, and we'll keep you posted on the adventures of the moondance cows!
Eric & Asheya
Episode 2:
Acropolypse Now
May 16, 2001
Kalispera, good evening!
The sun is falling, sinking into the layers of misted mountains and water that extend from the town of Volos in central Greece. Though there remains a full two hours before dusk, the wind at the top deck of our ferry saps any warmth. But we were clever, and spurning the smoke-choking interior and lower deck we will soon crawl into our sleeping bag which we converted into a cosy double. Three hours from now should see us in Skopelos, an island in the Sporades group. The first of many trains brought us much farther North than Santorini. The true green of this lush area is a delight after the harshness of Santorini's beauty, the cold grey-brown-green of the large and mountainous Naxos, and the squalid black of devilish Athens.
Naxos was a thrill. We abandoned the beaches to the partially overcast, breezy day, and instead jetted inland on a 90 CC motorscooter, with the much debated goal of climbing Mt. Zas. The rural society of the interior was a contrast with the labrynthine waterfront. So were the ambient temperatures. As we scooted onwards and upwards, the temperature dropped, the clouds built, and the already breezy ride became freezing. We drove straight past the peak of Mt. Zas, and headed for the coast. After another half hour, we were on a deserted, winding, ill-kept mountain road, surrounded by grey, and frozen thoroughly stiff. One of us loved it, despite the weather. The other
was less enthusiastic.
Time brought us out safely in the end, and we celebrated with another of our creative meals - a Grecian rice, apple, pear, zuchini stirfry with a lemon-honey-brandy sauce. We had also purchased a few chocolate treats, but on biting into one of them had the unpleasant taste of cigarette ashes! We
accompanied our meal (and washed away the cigarette taste) with a cocoa-brandy-nuynuy (pronounced noo noo, a type of condensed milk) drink to warm us up. Hey, you work with what you've got - and apparently in Greece if it doesn't walk it's in short supply!
Athens? Well, we saw the Acropolis, and then left running, literally. Our day and a half in Athens has been the worst part of our trip. We rediscovered our detestation of big, dirty, sprawling cities, and may tweak our future plans accordingly. There's no way the likes of us could like Athens anyway - there's no food there! Unless you can live on sweets, coffee, and alcohol (which most Greeks seem to do quite happily)....
Episode 3:
gobble gobble
May 23, 2001
Two days of train travel (including an overnight train) have taken us from Volos, Greece to Istanbul, Turkey. Most of the train officials seemed quite confused about our Balkan Flexipass, which we purchased in Canada. They have done many things to our poor passes, and we become quite anxious whenever our passes are taken away from us. The language barrier doesn't help either!
We love the little we have seen of Istanbul, in contrast with Athens (they have food here!), but nothing beats our time in Skopelos. When we arrived on the island we got off at the wrong port, which proved to be our best mistake! The port of Glossa (Loutraki) is on the quiet side of the island, and we loved the little rooftop studio, friends, and water for swimming we found there. We stayed through to Monday, and even a bit of sickness, which we suppose was brought on due to the climate change, didn't taint our relaxation.
The future--up to a week in Turkey, if we decide to head down to Ephesus, but we may just stay for a couple of days in Istanbul, enjoying the cheap food. Then an incredibly long rail-boat-rail will take us to Italy. Rome, Sienna, Florence, maybe Venice, and then Spain. We will write again. Bye for now!
Asheya & Eric
Episode 4:
east to west
June 2, 2001
Would you like to buy a carpet? Coloured by this recurring, though friendly, theme, Istanbul most closely fit our idea of a traveller´s paradise. With cheap lodging, rich history, and the only inexpensive, abundant, and widely varied food we´ve found from Turkey to Spain, Istanbul had it all.
As a part of both Europe and Asia, with a history involving both the Christian and the Muslim world, Turkey is fascinating for both its past and its present. Aya Sofya (the Church of the Holy Wisdom), a Cathedral begun in the 6th century, especially portrays the Christian/Muslim heritage; the original Christian mosaics were covered after the Muslim conquest when Aya Sofya was converted to a Mosque. However, in the 1930´s the mosaics were uncovered when Aya Sofya became a museum.
We stayed for five relaxing days, on the last day giving a carpet shop of our choice the chance to wow us with carpet history and apple tea. We discovered, as we had assumed, that not only can we not carry a carpet, we definitely cannot afford one! We settled for a cushion cover from a side shop instead. Then began the grueling 2 day journey back through Greece and across the sea to Brindisi, Italy.
Italy! Gaping in Rome for 2 nights, sweeping through Florence for a moment with David, wandering the medieval streets of Siena from dark until light, and feasting on the best meal of our lives on June 1 in Venice...ALL in the expanse of 4 days!
The Roman architecture awed us, and the Sistine Chapel, despite the crowds of people, still managed to inspire reverence. Bloated prices, thoughts towards Spain, and the foolish notion that reservations were as necessary as in Greece and Turkey (i.e. never) forced us on the Florence-Siena-Venice madness.
We had a picnic lunch near the Galleria dell´Accademia in Florence where David lives, and drank a whole bottle of wine in an attempt to make the entry line seem shorter. Perhaps it worked, for when we went back there was no line at all! The Gallery admission was closing and only accepted cash, which meant Eric had to run in frantic search of a bank machine, but we made it in at the last minute, and were able to appreciate the massive perfection of Michelangelo´s David.
We made friends that same night in the Siena train station, which is outside the old town. We discovered there was no room at the inn (at least, the affordable inn) and so after checking out the cemetery and university grounds as potential campsites (no go) we wandered around the old town and happened to run into our new friends. They offered us a place on their floor, so we left our bags there and headed for Piazza del Campo, the town square, a circular, cobblestoned slope that serves as a petri dish for observation of human consumption of various liquids. We, however, ate half an apple pie. At 4 am our friends found bed enticing, but to their puzzlement (and Asheya´s too) we hoisted our packs and began the hour walk to the train station. Needless to say, Eric was in charge of morale. Il Campo was a deserted wasteland of green tumblebottles and a few stray bodies. We marched on for the 5:45 to Venice.
In short, Venice provided us with a watermelon, great gelato, and some fine walking. Did we mention the best meal of our lives?! That night, on to Spain...!
Stay tuned for the further adventures of Eric and Asheya, episode 5.
Episode 5: of
camera and car
June 13, 2001
Every city has its own character. To us, Athens is drab and unhappy, Istanbul is friendly and affordable with good food, Rome is awesome, Florence is fine, Siena is...well, lovely in the dark, and Venice is touristy yet pleasant. Barcelona? Barcelona is the city of music and fun!
After 3 happy nights in Barcelona we began the great Spanish car adventure, in our rental car. Two days and 3100 km took us all the way down the Mediterranean coast through Alicante to Almeria, up into central Spain (near Toledo) to Cuenca, east to Morella, back to Cuenca (!), and up and over to the coast again, this time north of Barcelona.
In Alicante we had our first true Mediterranean summer experience: we frolicked in the warm waves. We continued this joy near Almeria, but with warmer tourquoise water, larger body-surf worthy waves, and good 100 ft stretches between individuals. The day was heaven, and Asheya turned pink for a few days as a reminder!
Our travels continued inland to Cuenca, where the old town perches above two river gorges.
The next town we visited, Morella, was portrayed as a fairytale city by our guidebook, and indeed its circular walls built on a hill, with a ruined castle at the top, was very storybook. We only had three hours to appreciate the fantastic views of the lush valley, rather than two nights, however, because we realized that Eric´s passport was back in Cuenca (a 6 hour drive)! It is customary for pensions to keep a passport until the key is returned and payment is made. It is their responsibility to return the passport, but we all forgot.
Spain surprised us. Expecting maybe elements of Mexico, and very flavourful people, we found instead a country similar to our own - beautiful, but westernized. Differences are apparent in the work schedule, however, (9am - 2pm, 5pm-8pm, with restaurants serving food at opposite hours to this), and the general assumption that after you finish eating there is no way you want the bill immediately. Unfortunately, besides Istanbul, we have not found consistently inexpensive food, though lodging in smaller towns is quite cheap.
We loved the vast natural expanses of yellow and green fields, deserts, orangey-red soil, and wooded glades between towns, often small towns with an old wall and a castle. The landscape frequently reminds us of BC and the rest of Canada. Travel really helps us appreciate the variety we have at home, and the similarities between lands. We always come home loving it all the more, and this will again be true.
We named our rental Peugeot 206 Bebe, since he required some babysitting; we had to feed him and we constantly worried that he was going to get into trouble while we were away. (He was the child we said we wouldn´t have for a few years yet!) In fact, our second stop at a rest area, we think someone got into the car and rifled through our stuff. Nothing was missing, though. We expect they got scared off. Bebe served us well, since we slept in the fold down hatchback half of the nights, partly for money and partly for convenience. And thus, we continue our trend--we find mostly cheap, private double bed rooms or else find more creative "lodging".
We returned Bebe to Barcelona yesterday. A surpising, or not so surprising, absent mindedness left us with no place to sleep so we played the night away and had an hour´s sleep outside the train station. It is a sort-of good thing, because we got another interesting story out of the night.
--LONG STORY HERE--
We were at a massive internet cafe, which flashes a warning on the screen regarding pickpockets every 10-15 minutes, and the employees remind you to watch your stuff.
Well, when we got up to go after being intent on e-mail, Eric realized the top of his pack was open, which had been sitting 2 feet next to us the whole time. Our camera, with film in it, and Asheya´s sunglasses were gone. We were most upset about the film, but were glad to remember there were only 6 or 7 pictures on it. The rest was just money and the hassle of finding a new camera, plus the pain to Asheya´s eyes (only fair though, since Eric´s glasses broke that morning. Luckily he brought a spare pair but the magnetic clip-on sunglasses don´t fit on them).
Despite the crisis, or maybe because of it, Asheya had to use the washroom. She utilized the time to pray that God would somehow help us find and retrieve the camera, acknowledging that God was not obliged.
We headed towards a pension we had stayed at, in a last attempt to find lodging and scolding ourselves for leaving valuable items accessible in the top of the pack, and for not being suspicious of people sitting right next to us when there were literally 50 other terminals available (they´re so sneaky!). As we were walking down the dimly lit street, suspicious of everyone, Asheya noticed three young guys walking towards us gleefully examining a camera and case exactly like ours. Without hesitation, she approached them, grabbed the camera, and said, "This is my camera!"
They were startled and confused but immediately grabbed the camera back. We knew the camera was definitely ours when we saw the markings on the case. With both of our hands reaching for the camera, and the insistent cries of "It´s our camera, por favor!", they nervously passed the camera to each other behind their backs, each one unwilling to directly face our onslaught. The camera passed hands (theirs and ours) over and over, finally stopping in a tug-of-war between Asheya and the seeming leader of the three. By this time we were sure they were not dangerous.
The discussion of who had rights to the camera ensued in at least three different verbal languages, plus body language. Their story, as far as we could understand, was that they had met a man who was drinking (bebida, a word they repeated often) and he had offered them a camera for 4000 pesetas ($32 CAD). We grew into each other´s stories, and Asheya´s impassioned pleas of "por favor" and tenacious hold on the camera may have helped convince them.
Eric insisted they give us the camera for the spare change in his pocket (1000 pst), but after one of the three ran & retrieved our film we had greater respect for their position. The film was ruined, of course, but the gesture was appreciated. Finally, we reached the mutually satisfying agreement to exchange 4000 pesetas for the camera and case. Like an old Western, there was a stand off of goods at the end, Eric holding the money, one of them with the camera, and suspicions thick in the air between. They traded in good faith, however, and a few hugs and kisses on the cheek European style were exchanged as we separated, both parties vastly relieved.
We thanked God, convinced that it was no coincidence the camera had been spotted and retrieved in a semi-sociable encounter. Somehow it seems God cares to answer prayers of trust for petty things like cameras - a mystery we will never understand. So, there will be pictures of the adventures yet to come!
--THE END--
Our bright future: six nights in an apartment by the beach in Spain (with cooking facilities, yay!), short stays with friends in France (Toulouse and Yvoire), on to Chamonix, a village in the French alps, a day in Berlin to tour and hopefully meet up with Asheya´s grandma and aunt, to Hamburg for a stay with Eric´s relatives, and finally to Switzerland for more of the alps.
So much fun!
Many blessings,
Asheya & Eric
Episode 6: Now, where were we?
Hello again! Remember us, the two newlywed wanderers? We have wandered far since we last wrote.
After our adventures in Barcelona, we had a pleasant, relaxing week just outside of Lloret de Mar, on the north-east coast of Spain. We think of it as the “honeymoon” part of our trip -- a time to be lost in one another. Travelling involves being lost in many other things besides each other, so it was a relief to settle in our sunny apartment 200m from the Mediterranean. The water was cooler here, but still warm enough for Eric to scrounge up a dead octopus with Asheya’s shoe!!!
We said good-bye to Spain, and took a train to Toulouse, in southern France, where we were met by our first hostess, Gretl Dubos. Unbenownst to us at the time, she is a relative of Asheya’s -- in fact she is her great-great aunt, despite being younger than Asheya’s grandma! We enjoyed a piece of Vienna in her home, since her heritage, like Asheya’s grandparents, is Austrian. The grand piano was fantastic, along with the old records of Rachmaninov and Schubert. Oh, and not to mention the veal shnitzel and the wonderful assortments of French sausages and cheeses for lunch!
We explored Toulouse, including the old water tower which now houses a photo gallery. The old water wheels are preserved under glass floors, and the pictures hang on the circular walls. All too soon we had to leave our new-found relative, and continue our journey to Yvoire.
Yvoire is situated on the French side of Lake Geneva (known as Lac Leman), and we arrived in port via ferry in the early afternoon. Before meeting our hosts, friends again of Asheya’s grandma, we took a tour of the medieval, walled city. Flowers bloom in baskets on all the houses and shops, and brighten the old stone walls. Yvoire is known as a town of flowers, and has won many floral competitions.
Our arrival coincided with nap time for the busy parents of the four children who were also visiting at the time. The son of Elizabeth Booz, our hostess, and his wife (Paddy and Ingrid) were visiting from Sweden with their four year old, Burton, and two year old, Emy. Also visiting were Erin and Sam from Portland, Oregon, Asheya’s second cousins, with their six year old, Jesse, and two year old, Zoe. Needless to say, the house was full! We offered reprieve to Erin and Sam, and spent a day with Ingrid and all the children playing in the park and at the beach (and we’re sure the children remember the ice cream!). This was an enjoyable change of pace, and we had so much fun just being around children again. However, we were reminded that we do not want to become pregnant too soon!
Our next stop was Chamonix, in the French alps. This village sits below Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe at 4807 meters (or about 15800 feet) above sea level, and we had an incredible view from our bedroom window.
We stayed two nights, but would have stayed longer if possible. This was long enough, however, to spend a day exploring in the mountains (together!). We took the gondola to the mid-point, bringing us directly to the alpine above the trees, so that we could laterally walk beneath the range of peaks that extend from Mont Blanc.
In Geneva, we met an Ontario couple at the train station, and due to Eric’s persistent suggestion, we journeyed on foot for an hour to the hostel where we all staying. Talking with Jeff brought up the name Dynacon, where he is newly employed, and Eric smirked at hearing another silly non-descriptive tech company name, thinking about how his brother Craig worked for one of those in Toronto. Then…
“Hey, is your company involved with satellites?” Eric asked. Jeff looked at
Eric a little strangely and replied affirmatively. “Do you know a guy named
Craig Hennessey?” Eric continued. Jeff’s eyes brightened and Eric laughed
and said, “That’s my brother!”
Dynacon only has some 30 employees. We couldn’t wait to tell Craig.
After eight hours north by train, we arrived in Hamburg, Germany, and were met by Stefan and Ute Leichert, Eric’s relatives. Dinner was at the Potato Keller, in a potato cellar atmosphere, with amazing potato dishes, including dessert. Yum! Later that evening we walked through a botanical garden, awaiting the light and water show set to American jazz. Stefan and Ute were excellent tour guides, and the next day gave us an exhaustive tour of the city, including a boat tour on the canals--by the end of the day, we were experts. Hamburgers are proud to say that Hamburg has more bridges than either Venice or Amsterdam! Just as we were finishing a German meal cooked on Stefan and Ute’s outdoor brick barbeque, enjoying the company of Eric’s cousin and her husband, a thunder storm rolled in and we had the first rain of our trip.
The rain continued as we arrived in Berlin the next morning. We contemplated taking a bus tour of the sites, but saved ourselves 70 deutchmarks, bought a 1 DM map, and walked the most interesting bits instead. We were disappointed that the Brandenburg Gate was completely covered by a drop sheet, for scientific examinations. The room of silence inside the Brandenburg gate, set up by the United Nations for all people, was still open, however, and we partook of the silence in the middle of the city.
Later that afternoon, we met Asheya’s grandma and great-aunt Eleanor at their hotel in Berlin. By happenstance, their cruise and sidetrip to Berlin coincided well enough with our adventures! We had a wonderful dinner with them, listening in fascination as they recounted stories of their childhood in Austria, the advent of WWII, and their efforts to start again in America.
That night as we slept we were whisked away to Zurich, Switzerland. So, now you know where we were, but where are we now? Here is a riddle to give you a clue, and we have a prize for first guessing true!
We are where the cows are
And where the mountains are too
Where water-falls abundant
But ringing sounds are few
We search for a large bed
And look to our home ahead
Still side by side everyday
We are working while we play
Write soon!
Asheya & Eric
Episode 6 and a half
Lauterbrunnen had waterfalls. Eric almost died by lightning.
Engelberg was great. It rained once.
Love ya,
E & A
Episode 7: et al.
From Zurich we traveled directly to Lauterbrunnen in the heart of the Swiss Alps. This village is in a valley upwards of Interlaken. The valley walls are typical of the Alps' geography: they rise sharply, a sheer wall of stone to the sky. These walls somewhat obscure the view of the primary mountains of the region (the Eiger, known as one of the most difficult ascents in Europe, the Monch, and the Jungfrau, the highest mountain at 4158 m, 13642 ft), along with the many expansive mountain chains, but make for fantastic waterfalls. Streams from the glaciers flow to the top of the valley walls and tumble off, some falling a good 1000 m. Lauterbrunnen is a picturesque village, and serves as a great base for the many walks and climbs in the area.
Eric had been anxiously awaiting this place, and soon set out from Lauterbrunnen, at 796 m, his eyes on the Schilthorn Alp. A series of cog railways and gondolas feed visitors up to this peak, atop which perches a revolving restaurant and other such amenities. It was not the typical destination for a mountain climb, but Eric put aside interest in more remote areas for the true Swiss experience-a civilized society, even to the tops of their mountains! Also, lacking proper mountaineering equipment, and climbing alone, a choice of mountains offering an abort plan (gondolas down if the weather turned sour, or if too much snow was encountered) was wise.
At around 1700 m, Eric discovered some friends to pose for his camera-massive cattle, complete with enormous bells, meandered over the hill-sides, playing music with every step. By this time, the three dominant mountains were fully exposed, and the chains stretched into the distance. Walking in the mountain air was bliss! Even the steaming cow patty discovered under sandaled foot was acceptable.
2200 m brought new friends. A flock of sheep were relaxing on the trail, and posed prettily as Eric tip-toed through their masses.
At 2432 m, the first snow was encountered, which lay thick onwards. The clouds had also blown in, leaving everything white, with patches of blue and glimpses of mountains. Here Eric changed from his approach shoes (sandals) into his mountaineering footwear (a pair of runners), and changed into his insulating inner clothing layer (from bare chest to a tank top)...when selecting mountaineering gear from a Mediterannean Europe backpack, one's choice is limited. A ridge led towards Birg peak, and after a descent to a saddle, finally the last slopes and ridge of the Schilthorn remained.
The snow/rain/hail began, Eric put on a fleece, and pressed onwards, noticing a figure with an ice-ax further up the slope. This was the first person in sight for quite some time. Up ahead was a plaque, reading "In Memory of Alice Charlotte, Wife of Capt. M. Arbuthnot XIV Hussars, Daughter of George Lord Rivers, Killed By Lightning On The Schilthorn Alp, 21 June 1865, Aged 23". A minute or so after reading this plaque came a bright flash, and the boom of thunder. The lightning continued several times a minute as Eric continued upwards, somewhat unhappily. There was a slight rock overhang a few minutes further, under which stood the other climber, fully clad in gore-tex from head to boot, plastic mountaineering boots on feet, and ice-ax in hand. It was a funny contrast. The storm seemed to be blowing to the rear, and a patch of blue above the peak encouraged a final press onwards. As Eric's new companion's ice-ax hummed in the electrically charged air, Eric politely asked to run onwards. And there ahead was the summit...and the restaurant...at 2971 m (almost 9,748 ft).
The two were unhappy at the prospect of taking non-physical transportation on a mountain (Eric loves climbing, and his friend was training for a 5-day summit attempt on Jungfrau the following month). After an hour of relaxing, the weather looked more encouraging, and the physical descent was selected. Eric got back to Asheya after dark, wild flowers in hand, and enjoyed Asheya's day of romantic planning, spaghetti inclusive.
From Lauterbrunnen we traveled to our last destination, Engelberg, below Mt. Titlis. Beautifully situated, Engelberg was a fitting final destination. We enjoyed a luxurious stay in an old hotel and days spent cooking, wandering in the sunshine and rain, and climbing. Happy and content, we railed to Zurich and flew to London spending an interesting night in the airport (drool from a drunk on our sleeping bag included), and experiencing the Tate Gallery of Modern Art, for good and bad (on our way back to the airport, we discovered our own tremendous and revolutionary piece of art; a wall was painted black! Right on the street!).
Then, home. Yay! Home!
Epilogue
So here we are, home. Since returning, we've found and moved into our new home on Capitol Hill in Burnaby, near SFU, adopted a puppy (Luna is border collie, black shepherd, and smaller dogs (whippet?) all wrapped together, and looks like the cutest little dingo!), and a kitten (Nova, a sweet ginger-white longhair). Life will be a little slower as we finish our last year of education (Asheya in PDP, Eric in Engineering), but full of new adventures.
After months in Europe together, with only the other, doing absolutely everything together from sharing meals to writing these e-mails, not only do we still love each other, but we still like each other! Travelling is exciting but also very stressful in ways, and it is great to be home (always knowing where and what to eat, and always having a place to sleep-no more getting drooled on, or forcefully ousted from the Thessaloniki railway station by six Greek men, relegating us to a park bench and the mercy of an unstable Greek lady with a large wooden club, which she later upgraded to a metal pole). We had so much fun, and experienced so many funny things! Thanks to all who e-mailed us while we were away, and we look forward to being in contact with you all in the future. Bye for now!
Eric & Asheya
